Scotland Trip

More Edinburgh-area highlights

The goal for Wednesday was a spot a bit outside of the city: Rosslyn Chapel. We boarded a bus and went 30-40 minutes out of the city to a “wee village” called Roslin. Just off the main intersection of the town is a chapel of much renown and controversy (most recently because of Dan Brown’s book – you may have heard of it – The DaVinci Code.

The truly amazing thing about the chapel, and the true reason to go and visit it, is the intricacy and diversity of the stonework. The chapel was built 1446-1450 or so, incorporating a variety of architectural styles and a range of themes in the stonework. Of course the main reason it’s famous and controversial is that some people think the Holy Grail is buried underneath the chapel (which it may be; it has been sealed for 300 years and the current Earl of Rosslyn won’t disturb it); other reasons for controversy have to do with potential links between the chapel and the Knights Templar and the Freemasons, who are of course controversial in their own right. Whatever may turn out to be the truth of all of this mystery, the chapel was certainly worth the trip out of the city, just to see all the stonework and hear the stories. Also, the chapel is currently covered by a large scaffold and canopy, so you can actually walk up to the roof level and stair at the upper stonework from eye-level. Very cool.

Afterward we had lunch at the pub on the corner, where we had probably the best pub lunch so far – quite a bit of very quality food, for the same amount we’d been used to paying for mediocrity. If you’re ever in Roslin, I recommend the pub at “The Original Inn”. Great atmosphere and a very friendly and helpful staff.

We took the bus back into the city and weren’t quite sure what to do next. On the way, we heard a 70-year-old Scottish man tell his 50ish friend all of his woes with his church, the Gas Board, and others. It was such good entertainment, I was very disappointed when his friend got off the bus and we were left only listening to his mutterances to himself.

We finally decided to spend the afternoon hiking up to Arthur’s Seat. We almost did so the day before, but it was cold, overcast, and starting to sprinkle at the time. Today was warm(er) and sunny, a much better day for hiking up to a 823 foot summit. Of course by the tme we got up there the sun disappeared, but being up there was well worth the hike. There are fantastic 360-degree views of the city, the outlying areas, and the Forth (aka the bay). However, it was VERY windy. While we were up there we met a guy from Orange County who told us a story about how he was hiking around the hill with a 120 lb female friend one day and she got picked up and blown away 3 feet. I didn’t feel too comfortable with this, so I was quite happy to start heading down the hill.

Cold and tired, we stopped at The Bean Scene and had some wicked cafe mochas, then we hopped on the bus and headed home. We got fish and chips (with authentic Edinburgh brown sauce – tasty!) “takeaway” (aka To Go) for dinner and ate in Paul & Michelle’s apartment.

Dave had requested an outing to hear some live Celtic music, so Paul drove us back into town to a pub called Sandy Bells, where we listened to some musicians do a jam session, and had some drinks. As it approached 11 pm, we realized we needed to finish up and get ourselves home; we were in bed around midnight.

Scotland Trip

Edinburgh must-see spots

Our strategy for Tuesday was to be sure to see the most important highlights to be seen here in Edinburgh, so that we could take Wednesday and Thursday to fill in with whatever we missed. The priority, of course, would be Edinburgh Castle, which was our first stop in the morning.

The structure that became Edinburgh Castle is the foundation of the city. The oldest structure at the Castle is St. Margaret’s Chapel, built around 1130 AD. The rest of the castle was built in stages over the centuries as the demands of the times required. The result is an impressive fortress and (now) tourist attraction on a high hill overlooking a busy, lovely European city.

We saw most of the key attractions at the castle, including the Great Hall (exactly as you would imagine a medieval “great hall”), the Scottish Crown Jewels (aka the Scottish Honours), a prisoners’ dungeon where American rebels were held during the Revolutionary War, and St. Margaret’s Chapel. We skipped most of the explicitly military exhibits, but we were on-site for the One O’Clock Gun, which they shoot off daily.

As it got to be lunchtime, we headed out of the Castle and down the Royal Mile. We ended up at a pub called the Jolly Judge, where we had a small lunch and a pint each. I forgot that the pints here are more than 16 oz. It was okay, though. It was cold outside and the pints didn’t help. So we sought out a shop where we could buy something warm. Dave bought a knit cap with the Scottish flag on it, and I bought a nice plaid wool scarf.

We kept heading down the Royal Mile, all the way to the new Parliament building. My opinion: the new building, on the outside, is UGLY. We did go inside, and the architecture inside is interesting enough and well-thought-out enough that I had a much more positive opinion once inside. The debating chamber is particularly interesting. The inside didn’t really revise my opinion of the outside, though.

We walked across the street to Holyrood Palace, but it had closed for the day. Then we started wandering a bit, aimless, until we finally realized that we had the time and energy to walk up Calton Hill. We went up there, where there was a really excellent view of the city and of the Firth (which is the bay on which Edinburgh is built). It was well worth the hike.

Then we hiked home, the weather being reasonably sunny. Paul made us a tasty haggis dinner. For those who have heard of haggis and are scared, fear not! It’s tasty, much like a peppery meatloaf. I recommend it to any meat eater.

After dinner we drove to the Forth Rail Bridge, which is a pretty cool cantilever bridge (according to Dave). It wasn’t lit up as well as we had expected, but we got a good view of it.

Then off to bed!

Scotland Trip

Day trip to Glasgow

At the urging of our friends James and Arbory, we took a 45-minute train ride from Edinburgh to Glasgow to visit. The weather was nice – chilly, but mostly sunny and not at all rainy. The train ride was nice, across the green Scottish countryside.

We came out of Queens Street station, got ourselves oriented, then walked several blocks to the Glasgow Cathedral. This was a very interesting space, and had quite a few lovely stained glass windows. We poked around here for a while and Dave took lots of pictures.

After a short while I realized that it was really lunchtime, so we walked back toward the center of the city to the Willow Tea Room, which had been designed by renowned Scottish architect Charles Rennie Macintosh. The decor was really interesting and fun, and the meal was delicious. We of course also had tea, which was lovely.

Then we went to a museum called The Lighthouse. It features contemporary art, and also is built around a much older building designed by Macintosh. That being the case, there is one entire gallery devoted to his work, and his life and times. We also hiked up the tower that he had designed, up a spiral staircase. It was quite a hike but it was worth it, because the top of the tower had an outside balcony that went almost all the way around, affording great views of the city and the outlying areas.

We spent quite a bit of time there, and after we left we walked down to the River Clyde for a bit. It wasn’t too scenic, but it had quite a few interesting bridges crossing it. We walked along it for a few blocks, then headed back up to find a subway station. We took the subway (which isn’t much of a system – it’s just a loop – but it works) up a few stops and then went to find the Glasgow School of Art, the original building of which was designed by – yes – Charles Rennie Macintosh. It was approaching 5 pm by now, though, so we didn’t take the tour.

We walked around a bit until we got to the next subway stop, then got back on and went up to Glasgow University. It was a beautiful campus at the top of a hill, with amazing views. There wasn’t much to do there either, so after we’d walked around for a while, we started heading in the direction of finding dinner. We ended up at a pub called Stravaigin, where we celebrated St. Patrick’s day by Dave having Guinness and I had Jameson’s Irish Whiskey. I had haggis for dinner, which was YUMMY – I completely recommend it.

It was getting late, so we took the subway back to Queens Street Station and got there just in time for the 8 pm train. It was a smooth trip back and we hiked downhill (amazingly!) back to Michelle and Paul’s house, and spent the rest of St. Patrick’s Day just hanging out, having a quiet evening with our friends.

Scotland Trip

First day in Edinburgh

Believe it or not, after only sleeping about three hours on the plane, we didn’t then take a nap. Instead, we went to a two-hour-long Palm Sunday mass. If we had known it would be THAT long, maybe we would have rethought it.

Since Michelle and Paul had to be at their respective churches rather early, Dave and I had a bit of time in the morning to gather ourselves, shower, etc. However, that meant that we had to get ourselves to church, which meant a hike through the city (all of which is uphill) to get to Michelle’s church down in the center of the city. It took a lot of energy that we didn’t really have, but it was quite nice, and it was great to see the city so quiet – apparently Scottish folk don’t get up that early on Sundays.

Michelle works at an Episcopal church called Old Saint Paul’s, and their church service is undeniably “high mass”. Of course being Palm Sunday, this was taken to the next level. The church service started with incense and a hymn, and then the entire congregation (which was impressively large) processed down the block, around the corner, and back, singing hymns all the while. This wasn’t too bad for us, because it kept us awake. We didn’t fare as well during the rest of the service, even with the variance in sitting, kneeling, and standing. There were a couple of instances where each of us almost fell down while standing up because we were nodding off. Most difficult was the lengthy singing of the passion (instead of reading from the Gospel of Matthew about Christ’s death). We finally rallied during the communion time, which was quite nice. After the service we helped Michelle clean up the kids’ area, then we managed to get Paul to pick us up, so we didn’t have to walk home.

After we got home we went back out again in search of lunch. We ended up at a pizza place called Pizza Express, which was quite tasty. Then we got coffee (very necessary for Dave and me at this point), then drove out to the suburbs to visit Paul’s family. We had a thoroughly enjoyable visit with Paul’s mom, dad, and brother, and they also gave us a home-cooked dinner. We were all completely wiped out by the end of the evening (Michelle and Paul having gotten up earlier than normal in order to pick us up at the airport), so we were glad to get back and go straight to bed.

Scotland Trip

Trip to Edinburgh!

Wow, it’s been a long time since I last posted… obviously it’s been a long time since we had an adventure worth writing about!

On Saturday, March 15, we drove from Maryland to Newark Airport (now patriotically dubbed Newark Liberty International Airport) to catch a non-stop overnight flight to Edinburgh, Scotland.  Nothing of note happened during the trip. It was so relaxing to not have to worry about changing planes, potential lost luggage, etc. We left the U.S. at 7:45 pm, and arrived in Edinburgh at 6:30 am local time. The flight was about 6 hours and 45 minutes. We slept some, though of course not very comfortably or continually.

We went through immigration fairly uneventfully. I was pleased to see that the United States does not have a monopoly on stupid people. As we were standing in the Non-UK/Non-EU line, two different women asked us if this was the line for people from Great Britain. I thought they would know they were from the UK… hmm…

Once we got our passports stamped and picked up our luggage, we came out to be greeted by our bleary-eyed friends Michelle and Paul, who had gotten up especially early to get us safely from the airport to their home. We got a bit of a tour of the route from the airport to their flat, with Paul of course driving on the left side of the road. Some breakfast and showers and we’re ready for Palm Sunday church!

Service Projects

Gulf Coast Trip: Digest Version

Below is the quick version of our trip to the Gulf Coast, though I realize it seems rather long. Click here to check out our photos. Read the entries below for details on various aspects of our trip, written topically rather than chronologically.

Friday, March 16: After work, we drove from our home in Silver Spring MD, through DC, down to Blacksburg VA. It was sleeting when we left, and snowed a bit as well in Virginia. It took us about 5 and a half hours. We spent the night with our friends Ryan and Elyn.

Nearly completed Habitat houseSaturday, March 17: We listened to Irish music in celebration of St. Patrick’s Day as we drove from Blacksburg through southwestern Virginia, eastern Tennessee, the northwestern corner of Georgia, across Alabama, and into Mississippi. We got to Hattiesburg MS around 6 pm CDT – the trip took about 11 hours. We moved into our volunteer housing, a Habitat home that had been turned into a bunkhouse for 12 people. We were the first ones to arrive. We drove around Hattiesburg a little bit – a cute university town (home of University of Southern Mississippi) but perhaps struggling a bit economically.

UMd Law StudentsSunday, March 18: We got up early and met one of our Site Supervisors, J.R. We also met the group that had arrived late the night before and was staying in the bunkhouse next door – 12 students from the University of Maryland Law School. J.R. gave us various projects in the three Habitat homes across the street, which were in various stages of completion. Dave and I installed a doorjamb in the kitchen, and helped a pair of law students install a vanity in the bathroom. Since the week promised to be full and intense, J.R. only had us work a half day. We all had lunch around noon and then the law students went off to go canoeing. Dave and I spontaneously decided to do the two-hour drive to New Orleans to see how it’’s recovering. (Read the report in “On Katrina“.) Before heading back to Hattiesburg, we had dinner at the home of our friends John and Christy in Jefferson Parish, and heard some stories about the difficulties of living in a city that is having difficulties coping with post-disaster realities.

Putting up the first wall on the new houseMonday, March 19: The build team gathered around 7:30 am, now including not only us and the students from UMd, but also a family of three from Seattle and a group of 20 or so people from a Baptist church in Bethlehem, PA. Two men from this group were our new housemates, and the rest were staying in hotels nearby. The main goal for the day was to frame the walls for a new house, which at the beginning of the day was only a cement pad next to the three in-process homes. In addition, there were smaller jobs that needed to be done in some of these houses. Dave became a leader on the team framing the new house, while I and a girl from UMd put moulding around inside door frames at the most completed house. We finished up close to 5 pm —– a long day of construction! The law student invited us to join them for a yummy home-cooked dinner, then we all went out bowling.

Inner walls of the new house, Day 2Tuesday, March 20: Once again getting an early start, Dave continued to head up the framing team, leading the crew on putting up inside walls. I ended up heading up a paint crew in the second-most completed house. A new group had been added to our team, a bunch of undergrads from Earlham College in Indiana. They made a great paint crew, and we got the inside ceilings and walls of the entire house primed and ready to paint the next day. After work was done and we were cleaned up, Dave took me out to dinner for my birthday at a cute locally-owned pub called the Keg and Barrel.

Wednesday, March 21: The law students had left but we still had a good sized team. Dave kept up the work on the new house, and I helped out for a while putting up some of the ceiling joists. Starting mid-morning, I oversaw a new group from Earlham College to paint the walls and ceilings of the house I was working on the day before. It was another full day of work. Afterwards, Dave and I picked up take-out barbecue from a local place and took it to have dinner with our friends Sue, Ellen, and Will, the family from Seattle. They were staying in a cabin on a lake at a state park about 10 miles down the road. It was a fun and relaxing evening.

This is what happens when you encourage your crew to paint youThursday, March 22: The Earlham College students moved on to do some work down in New Orleans, and most of the folks from the Baptist church had formed their own crews working on smaller projects such as patio roofs. That meant that Dave’s crew, which had come to the point of starting to put the roof beams on top of the house, consisted of the family from Seattle and our Site Manager, Mike. It was slower going than earlier in the week. I helped for a while, handing up roof beams as they were being cut. I later did some cleanup and detail work on the third house, to get it ready for Monday’s inspection before the drywall could be put in. After work, Dave and I drove around the Hattiesburg area, inspecting some of the hurricane damage and also general state of Hattiesburg. We had a very unhealthy but very tasty dinner of Gulf Coast style fried seafood.

Millers and KutschersFriday, March 23: Dave continued to work with Mike, Will, and Sue on getting the roof up. He had help from a few new individuals: two local women who volunteer every Friday. Ellen and I were tasked with a couple of other projects on this house, and were fortunate to have a few hours of help from a couple of great local college students both named Lindsay. We put weather-proof wrapping on the front of the house, then installed windows and sealed them. About halfway through the day, the folks from Pennsylvania headed out, and the job site got very quiet. By 5 pm, everyone was tired, and J.R. was ready to call it a day. The new house had most of the roof beams on it, and the windows were all in and sealed. It had been a good week of work, and we said farewell to our new friends from Seattle and to our great Site Supervisor J.R. Then we went to Keg and Barrel to watch the Hoyas beat Vanderbilt — hooray!

Saturday, March 24: We gathered all our things out of the volunteer bunkhouse and packed up our car. We said goodbye to Mike, who told us we could come back any time. We hit the road around 9 am and headed toward Nashville, going back through Mississippi and Alabama. It took about 6 and a half hours to get there. We stayed with our friend Joyce, and had a chance to enjoy more Southern culture by eating at Jack’’s Bar-B-Que and checking out a bluegrass concert.

Sunday, March 25: We left Nashville at 8 am and drove for hours and hours, through eastern Tennessee and Virginia. We were so happy to get to I-66 and head toward DC. As we got into the DC area, we listened on the radio to the Eastern Division NCAA basketball game, in which Georgetown magically beat UNC to head toward the Final Four. Go Hoyas!

Service Projects

On Hurricane Katrina

St. Bernard Parish, March 31 2007Hurricane Katrina struck the Gulf Coast on August 29, 2005 with a force and intensity that was greater than forecast. The city of New Orleans suffered the greatest damage, largely because the city is shaped like a bowl, and the levees that hold back the bodies of water that surround the city broke and the entire place filled with water. The communities along the Gulf of Mexico, such as Gulfport and Biloxi, also suffered greatly, particularly the homes and businesses within a few blocks of the beach, due to 27 foot waves known as storm surges that literally knocked down buildings and washed them either inland or out to sea. (There’s a lot of great detail on Wikipedia if you’re interested: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurricane_Katrina)

As Katrina proceeded, it whirled up Interstate 59 like a weed whacker, snapping trees in half, knocking down signs and utility poles, and peeling roofs off of buildings. This was the damage that was sustained in the Hattiesburg area (central Mississippi), causing some areas to be without power for up to four weeks and some businesses to close due to a lack of capital to rebuild.

Continue reading “On Hurricane Katrina”

Service Projects

On Hattiesburg

Hattiesburg, MSWhile Hattiesburg was hit pretty hard by Hurricane Katrina —– certainly harder than a community 75 miles inland is typically struck by a hurricane —– it didn’’t suffer nearly the damage that the communities further south sustained. On the other hand, though, the Hattiesburg area wasn’t as diverse economically as New Orleans, Gulfport, and Biloxi. The main ““white collar” industry in Hattiesburg is the University of Southern Mississippi (aka Southern Miss), and there is also a hospital. Most of Hattiesburg is working class: many jobs are military (National Guard base Camp Shelby is nearby), industrial (there are plants for Pepsi and Budweiser, as well as some local industry such as a foundry), and service sector (small shops and restaurants, and of course Wal-Mart). One of the women working with us to do her ““sweat equity” in order to qualify for one of the Habitat homes told us she was a Nurse’’s Assistant.

Check out our photos of Hattiesburg, including some photos of remaining hurricane damage.

One of the Habitat family ladies, and J.R.The Hattiesburg Area Habitat for Humanity affiliate had been building homes at a rate of 2-3 per year. The street we were working on had about 7 of these homes, which already had low-income families living in them. Once the hurricane rebuilding effort got underway, the affiliate seized the opportunity and set a goal of building 40 homes per year. So far this year, they had built the two homes that were currently the volunteer bunkhouses (though one would have a family move into it in April), plus the three existing “in-process” homes that were there when we arrived, plus the one we started the week we were there —– all this by mid-March! With the help of weekly teams of volunteers and donations coming in like never before, the Hattiesburg Area Habitat for Humanity is able to offer safe, decent housing to families who would not previously been able to think of such a thing. Some of them were evicted from apartments after Katrina when the landlords determined that it wasn’t worth fixing the hurricane damage. Some of them may have lost jobs when their employers closed or had to cut back after the disaster. Others are simply hardworking low-income families who are living through an ongoing unrelated pre-and-post-hurricane economic disaster.

Site Manager MikeKudos go to the incredible staff at the Hattiesburg Area Habitat for Humanity, who we were fortunate to work with while we were there: the Site Manager, Mike, and Site Supervisors Earl and J.R., and staff member Natacha, who wears many hats trying to identify families, coordinate volunteers, and raise funds for the affiliate. Visit their website and find out how you can contribute at http://www.hattiesburghabitat.org/.

Service Projects

On Religion

Dave and Jenn on the last day - good work!Faith is a major motivation for me and for Dave to spend a week building homes for low-income families. Jesus set an example of serving the poor, the sick, the disadvantaged, and said that any time we do an act of service for ““the least of these”, we are also doing it for the Lord (Matthew 25). The Bible says that if we present ourselves to God as ““living sacrifices”, it is considered a ““spiritual act of worship” (Romans 12). It seemed appropriate to us to do so by sacrificing our spring break and vacation time and spend it doing hard work for God’’s children rather than relaxing on the beach somewhere. This gives us an opportunity for us to give voice to those who have none (Proverbs 31) by sharing with our friends, families, and blog readers the truth of how working families are faring in the post-Katrina Gulf Coast region.

Habitat for Humanity was founded on similar philosophies. It’’s not a missionary organization, but it follows the example of Jesus Christ by caring for impoverished families all over the world, in a compassionate, respectful, and sustainable way. Habitat’’s materials are quite clear about the fact that it is a Christian organization, starting with its mission statement and streaming through its website, printed materials, and its monthly magazine. Habitat is equally clear that it welcomes supporters and volunteers of all faiths to join in fulfilling its work. Check out the “Theology of the Hammer” page on its website: http://www.habitat.org/ap/theology_hammer.aspx.

Continue reading “On Religion”

Service Projects

On Construction

If you volunteer for Habitat —– particularly for an entire week —– you should not kid yourself that you’re doing a nice little service project. If you want to do something that helps someone else and feels good, stop and think about what you’re getting into first; maybe tutoring or handing out sandwiches is a better choice for you.

Earl, redoing people's workA Habitat build is a construction site, and while most of the workers are not stereotypical construction workers, the work is still the same, and the dangers are the same (if not greater, since there are lots of rookies).

At the beginning of each day, the Site Supervisor is supposed to give a safety talk. It varies in length and scope, but the one thing that is always emphasized is: don’t leave anything on the top of a ladder. You or someone else may try to move the ladder and then you’ll have something come crashing down on your head.

There’s a very good reason why they make all volunteers sign a waiver.

Continue reading “On Construction”