Milwaukee: Hofbrau House Old German Beer Hall

For our lunch in Milwaukee before heading out, we had picked out the Hofbrau House Old German Beer Hall for some appropriate German pub food.

It’s safe to say that we didn’t get the full effect by being there at 1:45 pm on a Sunday afternoon. We had to eat at the bar because none of the tables had been cleared after the Sunday rush, and the only one running the place was the guy behind the bar. There were only a half dozen patrons left, and half of them cleared out while we were waiting for our food. So it was hardly the raucous place that Yelp had lead me to expect.

The beer special prompted Dave to order a liter of beer (it was half price, making it cheaper than a half-liter), while I ordered root beer, after a complicated conversation with the bartender in which I finally learned that the soda was neither Coke brand nor Pepsi brand. We had plenty of time for Dave to drink from his ridiculously large glass stein, while we watched NFL football on the TV directly above our heads. We ordered cheese curds and Weißgerber Bratwurst, both of which were quite tasty.

Before we hit the road, we swung by the Starbucks in the Hilton a few blocks away to get me some coffee for the four-hour drive ahead of us. Let’s just say that Dave wasn’t feeling much pain after downing a liter of beer in one hour. A good excuse for why we don’t have any photos of the place. *smile*

Milwaukee: Crisp fall morning along the lake

Downtown Milwaukee, fall morningWhile yesterday’s weather had been dreary and damp, the weather today was stereotypically celebrated autumn weather: sunny, with a crisp breeze, definitely jacket weather.

We left the Days Inn near the airport where we spent the night at a bargain rate, and headed directly for the shore of Lake Michigan. We drove north up the roads that skirt the lake, through the lakeside neighborhoods south of Milwaukee, which were quite charming. We stopped for a few moments at an overlook to take some photos and admire the sunny skyline and the sailboats on the water.

Milwaukee Art Museum - Quadracci PavilionThen we headed for Veteran’s Park, parking on the side of Lincoln Memorial Drive because the parking lots were closed due to a race that seemed to have long since finished. I had intended for us to check out the Milwaukee County War Memorial Center, designed by Eero Saarinen. Somehow, though, we missed it. Maybe we were distracted by the crazy boat-like architectural design of the Milwaukee Art Museum in its immediate vicinity.

Rainbow and Pig WindsocksInstead we ended up just walking around Veteran’s Park, which had a pleasant level of activity without seeming busy. People were walking, rollerblading, running – even one (grownup) guy playing with his remote control car and making it peel out. There were a few dozen sailboats out on the water, though the marina was more full than empty, due to the brisk temperature and the back-to-school fall attitude. Overall, it was pretty peaceful, though I could imagine how bustling it must be during the warmer months.

We browsed for a few minutes in the kite shop in the middle of the park, then finished walking around the pond that lined the road. It was just right for a Sunday morning stroll.

Milwaukee: Miller Park

Alice Cooper: Well, I’m a regular visitor here, but Milwaukee has certainly had its share of visitors. The French missionaries and explorers began visiting here in the late 16th century.
Pete: Hey, isn’t “Milwaukee” an Indian name?
Alice Cooper: Yes, Pete, it is. In fact, it’s pronounced “mill-e-wah-que” which is Algonquin for “the good land.”

Miller Park marquee

In contrast to our swanky treatment at Kauffman Stadium (okay, so we had a parking pass and 100-level seats… not exactly a chauffeur and a luxury box), we determined to do our Milwaukee Brewers experience as cheaply as possible. The $5 seats on StubHub somehow ended up costing a total of $19.85… still, the lowest we had paid all season. But, they weren’t bad seats! Right behind home plate, in the nosebleed 400 level.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. We drove up to Milwaukee from Champaign the day of the game, with Dave’s lead foot getting us there in record time. (I won’t even say how quick it was, because I don’t want to incriminate anyone.) We stopped at our hotel and checked in, then made our way up to Miller Park.

Miller ParkYou can get a very good view of the stadium from the freeway, and boy is it an interesting piece of architecture. Think of an airplane hangar with a large steel ladybug-shaped roof, and you’ll get the idea.

It had been rainy-ish all day, and we fretted as we drove about what would happen if the game got rained out. About halfway there, Dave realized: the stadium has a roof on it! The game won’t get rained out!

This was the first indoor baseball game Dave had ever been to, and he found it very surreal. To be fair, the lighting at Miller Park has an unusual quality, when the sunlight filtered through closed windows meshes with the light coming from the stadium kliegs. The really great thing, though, was that it was probably 10-15 degrees warmer in there than it was outside. It was still drafty and not exactly warm, but much better than being outside in Milwaukee’s late September temps.

Bud Selig statue at Miller ParkI should mention that we walked around before the game and admired some of the amenities, such as the picnic shelters in the parking lot (for group tailgating), the brand new statue of Bud Selig (which even *he* found barely admirable), a very cute Little League park outside the stadium, and a fun, though creepily lit, kids’ play area inside (which appears to be free of charge – take that, Kauffman Stadium!).

The game itself was nothing memorable, especially since neither Dave nor I has strong feelings for the Milwaukee Brewers nor the visiting Florida Marlins. The Marlins ended up winning 4-0. We had a nice time. The stadium was pretty nice. The fans were nice. There were a couple of alcohol-free family sections, which I thought was a nice, family-friendly idea. I ate a yummy loaded baked potato.

Afterward, due to a typical lack of creativity and planning, we ended up at Rock Bottom in downtown Milwaukee for a couple of drinks and a little nosh. I recommend the new pub antipasto if you happen to go. *smile*

Chicago with Michelle and Eric

Chicago skyline featuring Hancock TowerIn September, Jenn’s best friend Michelle and her husband Eric (previously mentioned in our blogs about the Utah leg of our 2009 cross-country trip) came to the scenic Midwest to visit. Eric had never been to the Midwest, and Michelle had not really spent time in Illinois before.

While they were here, we spent about a day and a half in Chicago. The first day was perfect weather; the second day was rainy and yucky. The highlights:

  • Eric got to see my mom’s cousin’s 100-year-old house in Rogers Park, which he loved (Eric renovates old homes for a living – check out http://dovetail-remodeling.com)
  • A stroll down the Chicago Riverwalk (recommended)
  • Navy Pier, the first time for all of us (we don’t really recommend it, other than perhaps for the views, or if you’re 13.)
  • Water Taxi from Navy Pier to the Museum Campus (recommended, though the water was rather choppy when we did it)
  • Lou Malnati’s for deep dish (of course)
  • A nighttime stroll through Millennium Park (check out Dave’s awesome photos)
  • Wrigley Field - Dave Matthews and Jason Mraz

  • A very interesting walk around the block outside Wrigley Field during the Dave Matthews concert (super fun crowd vibe)
  • Improvised Shakespeare at Improv Olympic (recommended – totally hilarious)
  • Breakfast at Ann Sather (Some friends introduced us to it in 2000, and now we can’t think to have breakfast anywhere else in Chicago. Plus, Andersonville made Michelle & Eric feel like they were back in Kingsburg – y’know, the Swedish thing.)
  • The Field Museum (I didn’t think it was worth it)
  • The Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio (very worthwhile – an interesting perspective on FLW)
  • Dinner at Five Guys Burgers (can’t go wrong with that)

We intended to go up in the Sears Tower, but it thunderstormed Saturday morning, and when we left the Field Museum in the middle of the day – though it was no longer raining – the top half of the building was engulfed in clouds. We figured it wouldn’t be a very good view from up there on a day like that.